Issues
← Back to all issuesFrom this Issue
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Introduction
Sigrid Rausing
‘Writing about other people doesn’t have to be an exercise of power or a theft of identity.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Between Great Fires
William Atkins
‘This is the perennial anxiety – that at any moment, day or night, you might be snatched and shackled and tried and sent back.’
Poetry|Granta 138
Poetry|Granta 138
The Remains of the Day
Emily Berry
‘I am lying in the foetal position on a beach in the east of England.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Vinyl Road Trip
David Flusfeder
After an unexpected email, David Flusfeder heads to Detroit to discover his father’s history and the world of vinyl manufacturing.
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Lindsey Hilsum | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Lindsey Hilsum
‘We need a new genre of travel writing, gleaned from the stories refugees and migrants.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Samanth Subramanian | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Samanth Subramanian
‘The first time I ever visited a place I’d read about in a travel book was when my family took a holiday in Hong Kong in 1993.’
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Another Great Leap
Justin Jin & A Yi
‘A man will only return to his birthplace in the countryside when he is dead. This is our reality.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Well Done, No. 3777!
Xiaolu Guo
‘I grew up in the semi-tropical south, dotted by wet paddy fields, but I always wanted to go to the north.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
On the Road
Janine di Giovanni
‘But I still get homesick, that vast and deep pit in the stomach, every time I go away.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Ian Jack | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Ian Jack
‘Travel writing of most kinds, not just the humorous, has the history of colonialism perched on its shoulder.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Alexis Wright | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Alexis Wright
‘In my imagination I have been to many villages and cities in the world.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Colin Thubron | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Colin Thubron
‘The death of travel – and of the travel book – has been predicted for almost a century.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Robert Macfarlane | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Robert Macfarlane
‘The best writers rose to the challenge by seeking not originality of destination, but originality of form.’
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Re-Entry
Andrew McConnell & Adam Marek
‘I wanted to see a human’s expression after returning from space.’
Fiction|Granta 138
Fiction|Granta 138
Chekhov’s Ladies
Edna O’Brien
‘Malachi is brushing her hair, long, dark brown and with russet glints. She likes it, as he can tell from her smile in the mirror.’
A short story by Edna O’Brien.
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Old School
Xan Rice
‘Apartheid had marked him, as it has marked all of us, in different ways. It made me hyper-aware of colour.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Pico Iyer | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Pico Iyer
‘The writer on place has to go further inward, into the realm of silence and nuance and personal enquiry.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Mohsin Hamid | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Mohsin Hamid
‘I have come to believe that we are all migrants, that the experience of migration unites all human beings.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Geoff Dyer | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Geoff Dyer
‘What kinds of writing aren’t travel writing?’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Rana Dasgupta | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Rana Dasgupta
‘This is a literature of checkpoints and fences, and the improvised gaps through which desperate people pass.’
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Art & Photography|Granta 138
Higher Ground
Carl De Keyzer
‘These photographs capture that fatal boredom in the face of this slow-motion catastrophe.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Hoa Nguyen | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Hoa Nguyen
‘I didn’t have the language for why I could not be a tourist in the same way as my white counterparts.’
Poetry|Granta 138
Poetry|Granta 138
Hymen Elegy
Safiya Sinclair
‘Dammed my wet scream around those verbs / for a violence.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Eliza Griswold | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Eliza Griswold
‘Even in its subtler forms, the act of looking is an act of self-regard.’
Poetry|Granta 138
Poetry|Granta 138
Nobody Represents Me
Zeyar Lynn
‘Do I have the heart to drink a glass of cool Coke?’
Fiction|Granta 138
Fiction|Granta 138
Friend of My Youth
Amit Chaudhuri
‘You don’t plunge into growing up; it happens in spite of you.’
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Essays & Memoir|Granta 138
Tara Bergin | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Tara Bergin
‘If you laugh and tell me I am only speaking metaphorically, I will reply: what other way do you expect me to speak?’
The Online Edition
Fiction|The Online Edition
From the Left Bank of the Flu
Misumi Kubo
‘The big road looked to me like a river, the cars rushing by as if carried along on its current.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Talking Italish
Antonio Melechi
‘For my mother and father, the past and present had both become foreign countries.’
Poetry|The Online Edition
Three Poems
Karen McCarthy Woolf
‘May it not be / that they owe their fleshiness / to the cumulative effect?’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Amit Chaudhuri | First Sentence
Amit Chaudhuri
‘A scene in which nothing is ostensibly happening will absorb me; so will a paragraph that contains no vital piece of information.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
The Tamarind is Always Sour
Keane Shum
‘By law, the more than one million Rohingya in Myanmar are almost all excluded from Myanmar citizenship, making them the largest stateless group in the world.’
Poetry|The Online Edition
Three Poems
Kim Kyung Ju
‘Underneath the leaves that stack my upper lip / the reindeer do not share their love.’ Translated from the Korean by Jake Levine.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Microtravel: Home and Away
Anthony (Vahni) Capildeo
‘The place I thought I knew best had become unknown territory, by the perhaps not-so-simple process of taking a few steps.’
Poetry|The Online Edition
Calorific
John Kinsella
‘They are superbly and viscerally unreal / and I feel their living drive’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Consolata
Nuala O’Connor
‘Daddy always said our apples were blessed because the order lived beside us. He liked to gift crates of Egremont Russets, the sweetest of all his fruit, to the sisters.’
Five Things Right Now|The Online Edition
Eli Goldstone | Five Things Right Now
Eli Goldstone
‘The closest I come to meditating is sitting in front of a tumble dryer with a dead magazine.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Strange Heart Beating
Eli Goldstone
‘Grief is the aggressive displacement of the self from a known universe to another.’
Poetry|The Online Edition
Two Poems
Zeyar Lynn
‘Our errors evolved into nature.’ Translated from the Burmese by ko ko thett.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Terra Nova
Robert Moor
Robert Moor remembers hitch-hiking across Newfoundland: ‘The way to pronounce Newfoundland, Bill and Sue instructed me, is to remember that it rhymes with understand.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Last Days on Corfu
Amelia Gray
A novel about the life of celebrated dancer Isadora Duncan. ‘You can feel her in every room. The chandeliers shiver.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
The Land In Winter
Madeleine Thien
Madeleine Thien on the occupation of Palestine.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Things I Didn’t Know
Wiam El-Tamami
‘When people would ask me what I was doing in Istanbul, I would explain that I’m a freelance writer and translator, and I move a lot. I move intuitively, I would say: places call to me.’
Poetry|The Online Edition
Mars is a Stupid Planet
Matthew Rohrer
‘Even astronauts describe / our air as thick enough to slice / and spread on toast for breakfast.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
I come from a place on your bucket list
Deepti Kapoor
Deepti Kapoor on travel, authenticity and the peculiarity of being Indian in Uganda.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Elif Batuman | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Elif Batuman
‘The power imbalance built into travel writing is just a heightened version of an imbalance that’s there in all writing.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
The Bonds of Trauma
Daniel Magariel
‘An often-unacknowledged truth about families that deal with addiction is that the bonds of trauma can be as challenging to quit as the habit itself.’
Five Things Right Now|The Online Edition
Sarah Gerard | Five Things Right Now
Sarah Gerard
Sarah Gerard on Leonora Carrington, shoegaze music and gaslighting.
Art & Photography|The Online Edition
Sick of Steel
Gus Palmer & Emilie Harley
Tamburi sits in the shadow of one of Europe’s largest steel plants. The pollution is giving the locals cancer.
Fiction|The Online Edition
Borne
Jeff VanderMeer
‘The map of the old horizon was like being haunted by a grotesque fairy tale, something that when voiced came out not as words but as sounds in the aftermath of an atrocity.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Morwari Zafar | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Morwari Zafar
‘What satellites and the internet don’t do is give a voice to experience. And that’s where travel writing endures.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
The Back Way and the Way Back
Will Boast
Despite emerging from two decades of misrule under Yahya Jammeh, many Gambians still aspire to go ‘the back way’ into Europe.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Sara Wheeler | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Sara Wheeler
‘Mass travel has liberated the form. No amount of package tours will stop ordinary life quietly continuing everywhere on earth.’
In Conversation|The Online Edition
Sana Krasikov and Viv Groskop In Conversation
Sana Krasikov & Viv Groskop
Sana Krasikov and Viv Groskop discuss the Soviet experience, the rise of mass cynicism and the politics of Russia and the US today.
Poetry|The Online Edition
Fourth Person Singular
Nuar Alsadir
‘The wet in the air is like signal anxiety: life is about to / change.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Drive Your Plough Over the Bones of the Dead
Olga Tokarczuk
‘They gazed at us calmly, as if we had caught them in the middle of performing some ritual whose meaning we could not fathom.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Letters to Donald Trump
Various Contributors
Six writers and translators respond to Donald Trump’s travel bans. ‘It is always easy to invent enemies; it merely takes a failure of imagination.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Exit West
Mohsin Hamid
‘Everyone was foreign, and so, in a sense, no one was.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Forbidden Games
Tia Wallman
‘We do not understand why, nor did we covet such long life, but here we are, our respective addictions and madness with us to the end.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Lincoln in the Bardo
George Saunders
‘Must I deny my predilection, and marry, and doom myself to a certain, shall we say, dearth of fulfillment?’
Fiction|The Online Edition
Qualitative Leaps
Sana Krasikov
‘Breaking your family’s heart was the price you paid for rescuing your own.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Wendell Steavenson | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Wendell Steavenson
‘Our globalised world of easyJet and Google Translate does not seem to have fostered any greater understanding’
Five Things Right Now|The Online Edition
Sana Krasikov | Five Things Right Now
Sana Krasikov
‘The world is teeming with demons who are always looking for ways to screw with your good fortune.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
The Secular World
Nadeem Aslam
‘There is no lack of talent in this country. All we lack is decent leaders.’ Pakistan’s secular world runs against fundamentalism in Nadeem Aslam’s latest novel, The Golden Legend.
Fiction|The Online Edition
Better Protect America
Padma Viswanathan
Padma Viswanathan on the absurdities of the US Border Patrol Agency. ‘The new security was going to be unpredictable, by design.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Olivia Laing | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Olivia Laing
‘Which bodies can go where might be the central question of our century.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
On Stage
Bandi
‘Where emotions are suppressed and actions monitored, acting only becomes ubiquitous, and so convincing that we even trick ourselves.’
Fiction|The Online Edition
The Book of the Dead
Orikuchi Shinobu
A gothic tale of love between a noblewoman and a ghost in eighth century Japan, translated by Jeffrey Angles.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
The Colonel’s New Life
Charlotte Eagar
A refugee family’s journey from Syria to Germany.
Fiction|The Online Edition
Chanel Nº 5
Victor Lodato
‘The liquid tingled, a subtle electrification, as the scent changed, bloomed, became an extension of the boy himself.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Karan Mahajan | Is Travel Writing Dead?
Karan Mahajan
‘Too often, a kind of travel writing – especially the novel set abroad in an exotic locale – feels like a way of allegorizing and escaping problems at home.’
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Since Everything Was Suddening Into A Hurricane
Binyavanga Wainaina
After a sudden stroke, Binyavanga Wainaina and his lover travel to Nairobi to reconcile with his father.
Essays & Memoir|The Online Edition
Crossing Borders
Carys Davies
Carys Davies on how the settlement of the American West can help us understand Donald Trump’s nativism.
Fiction|The Online Edition
Hilditch & Key
Carl Shuker
A Syrian refugee visits London’s oldest houses of fashion. ‘The contemplation of the perfection of a craft, worn by a man who knew its worth, and his own.’