One cold evening in late November last year I left my flat in southern Paris, took the métro to Saint-Denis, a suburb to the north of the city, and then a bus to an outlying council estate, or cité, called Villiers-le-Bel. The journey took little more than an hour but marked a sharp transition bet…
‘Indigenous chefs will tell you that their dishes are Indigenous, not Canadian. With the plate, these chefs demonstrate that the food is the land, and that the land is still theirs.’
Zoe Tennant profiles Andrew George, a Wet’suwet’en chef.
Cooking from Memory
‘Each bite exploded temporally, an exquisite blend of past and future that put you firmly in the present moment.’
Barclay Bram on Sichuanese cuisine.
‘This might seem a lot of biographical significance to attribute to a single bad experience with a shepherd's pie.’
John Lanchester on what to eat during winter.
Typical Global and Typical Local Food
‘The banana is a gentle, sweet, ingenuous child. The plantain is a more complex adult.’
Héctor Abad Faciolince on Colombian food, translated from the Spanish by Anne McLean.
Fatima Bhutto | My Other Thing
‘The team here makes 3,500 to 4,000 pieces of viennoiserie a week. That’s forty-four kilos of dough a day, one third of which is butter.’
Fatima Bhutto learns to make the perfect croissant.